Fashion Desire and AnxietyFashion Desire and Anxiety

Generously illustrated, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety focuses on the last thirty years, from photographic works of the 1970s to the beginning of the twenty-first century.

Author: Rebecca Arnold

Publisher: Rutgers University Press

ISBN: 0813529042


Page: 144

View: 530

Fashion, and the glossy magazines it inhabits, allow Western culture to dream. It permits a person to fantasize and to experiment with new identities. It flaunts glamour and success. Appearance becomes something to be perfected and admired. These dreams and freedoms, Rebecca Arnold proposes, are contradictory. Fashion and its surrounding imagery elicit fear and anxiety in their consumers as well as pleasure. Fashion has come to incorporate the underside of modern life, with violence and decay becoming a dominant theme in clothing design and photography. Arnold draws on diverse written sources to explore the complex nature of modern fashion. She discusses a range of key themes: how fashion uses and abuses the power of wealth; the alienating promotion of "good" taste; the power plays of sex and display; and how identities can be blurred to disguise and confuse. In order to unravel the contradictory emotions of desire and anxiety they provoke, she never loses sight of the historical and cultural contexts in which fashion designers and photographers perform. Generously illustrated, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety focuses on the last thirty years, from photographic works of the 1970s to the beginning of the twenty-first century.

Fear of FashionFear of Fashion

This book examines fashion as a phenomenon driven by fear as much as desire.

Author: Otto von Busch


ISBN: 9198038885


Page: 203

View: 623

This book examines fashion as a phenomenon driven by fear as much as desire. It presents a collection of cases written during the course "Critical Fashion and Social Justice" at Parsons School of Design, which investigate the dynamics that propel aesthetic competition, anxiety, and bullying.

Fashion in Popular CultureFashion in Popular Culture

In her book Fashion, Desire and Anxiety, Arnold (2001) analyzes runway fashion (influenced by street style) and its articulation of desires and anxieties.

Author: Joseph H. Hancock II

Publisher: Intellect Books

ISBN: 9781783200474


Page: 297

View: 475

This book cover both historical and contemporary concerns, including the role fashion plays in subcultures. Fashion is a phenomenon that exemplifies diversity across cultures.It is dependent on time and place and commonly defined as the prevailing style at a given moment or place. Fashion is codified and endowed with social meanings about gender, sexuality and identity. Dress frames the body. It expresses who we are and who we are not as a means of expressing identity and a way of interacting and belonging to a particular culture. Dress also plays an important part in proclaiming a personOCOs sexual and gender identity.This book reflect the breadth of recent fashion scholarshipOCoin both historical and contemporary settings our authors have engaged with film, photography, comics, magazines and television.

Picturing the Woman ChildPicturing the Woman Child

Fashion, Feminism and the Female Gaze Morna Laing ... 1 Arnold, 'Heroin Chic'; Rebecca Arnold, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the ...

Author: Morna Laing

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 9781350059603


Page: 320

View: 773

The childlike character of ideal femininity has long been critiqued by feminists, from Mary Wollstonecraft to Simone de Beauvoir. Yet, women continue to be represented as childlike in the western fashion media, despite the historical connotations of inferiority. This book questions why such images still hold appeal to contemporary women, after three, or even four, waves of feminism. Focusing on the period of 1990–2015, Picturing the Woman-Child traces the evolution of childlike femininity in British fashion magazines, including Vogue, i-D and Lula, Girl of my Dreams. These images draw upon a network of references, from Kinderwhore and Lolita to Alice in Wonderland and the femme-enfant of Surrealism. Alongside analysis of fashion photography, the book presents the findings of original research into audience reception. Inviting contemporary women to comment on images of the 'woman-child' provides an insight into the meaning of this figure as well as an evaluation of theory on the 'female gaze'. Both scholarly and accessible, the book paves the way for future studies on how readers make sense of fashion imagery.


Disseminating Desire Arnold, Rebecca, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century, London, 2001. Bailey, Peter, Popular Culture ...

Author: Christopher Breward

Publisher: OUP Oxford

ISBN: 9780191587733


Page: 272

View: 881

This lively survey of 150 years of fashion covers everything from Haute Couture to the High Street, and developing fabric technology from silk to fleece. From Coco Chanel to Armani and Alexander McQueen, Breward explores fashion as a cultural phenomenon. Breward examines the glamorous world of Vogue and advertising, the relationship between fashion and film, and fashion as a business, and goes beyond the surface to consider our interaction with fashion. How have our ideas about hygiene and comfort influenced the direction of style? How does our dress create our identity and status? Details of dandies, flappers, and punks are contained within a clear overview of the period which will make you look at your clothes in a different light.

Experimental FashionExperimental Fashion

Arnold, Fashion, Desire, and Anxiety, 48–62, 80–94. Arnold's reading conforms to arguments that have been made in relation to contemporary horror movies, ...

Author: Francesca Granata

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 9781786720290


Page: 232

View: 147

Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Publication Award Experimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. The book examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, the book argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and inversion. It explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.

Fashion Tyranny and RevelationFashion Tyranny and Revelation

13 Arnold, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety, 78. 8 11 14 Ibid. 15 Kenneth Bendiner, Food in Painting from the Renaissance to the Present (London: Reaktion, ...

Author: Damayanthie Eluwawalage

Publisher: BRILL

ISBN: 9781848884830



View: 912

This collection of chapters endeavour to explore the consumption, governance, potency and patronage of attire in the context of social, socio-economic and fashion philosophies.

The Great Fashion DesignersThe Great Fashion Designers

From Chanel to McQueen, the names that made fashion history Brenda Polan, ... Arnold, R. (2001), Fashion, Desire and Anxiety, London: I.B. Tauris.

Author: Brenda Polan

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 9781350091634


Page: 396

View: 919

Over the last 180 years designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights to capture the spirit of their times. This beautifully illustrated revised edition features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon - and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair to show us fashion at its most inspirational.

Fashion Capital Style Economies Sites and CulturesFashion Capital Style Economies Sites and Cultures

6 R. Arnold, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century, I.B. Tauris, London, 2001, p. 125. 7Cf. T. Veblen and M. Banta, ...

Author: Jess Berry

Publisher: BRILL

ISBN: 9781848881433


Page: 209

View: 549

Originating from the 2nd Global Fashion Conference hosted by Inter-Disciplinary.Net in Oxford, UK 2010.

Dance Desire and Anxiety in Early Twentieth Century French TheaterDance Desire and Anxiety in Early Twentieth Century French Theater

... exploded into Paris fashion and interior design, and remained an influence for years.16 Dress designers like Paul Poiret, for example, began to outfit ...

Author: Charles R. Batson

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 9781351946483


Page: 288

View: 562

The 1909 arrival of Serge de Diaghilev's Ballets Russes in Paris marked the beginning of some two decades of collaboration among littérateurs, painters, musicians, and choreographers, many not native to France. Charles Batson's original and nuanced exploration of several of these collaborations integral to the formation of modernism and avant-gardist aesthetics reinscribes performances of the celebrated Russians and the lesser-known but equally innovative Ballets Suédois into their varied artistic traditions as well as the French historical context, teasing out connections and implications that are usually overlooked in less decidedly interdisciplinary studies. Batson not only uncovers the multiple meanings set in motion through the interplay of dancers, musicians, librettists, and spectators, but also reinterprets literary texts that inform these meanings, such as Valéry's 'L'Ame et la danse'. Identifying the performing body as a site where anxieties, drives, and desires of the French public were worked out, he shows how the messages carried by and ascribed to bodies in performance significantly influenced thought and informed the direction of much artistic expression in the twentieth century. His book will be a valuable resource for scholars working in the fields of literature, dance, music, and film, as well as French cultural studies.

Fashion TheoryFashion Theory

Arnold, R. (2001) Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century, London: I.B. Tauris. Bachelor, D. (2000) Chromophobia, ...

Author: Malcolm Barnard

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 9781351583657


Page: 830

View: 725

This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader brings together and presents a wide range of essays on fashion theory that will engage and inform both the general reader and the specialist student of fashion. From apparently simple and accessible theories concerning what fashion is to seemingly more difficult or challenging theories concerning globalisation and new media, this collection contextualises different theoretical approaches to identify, analyse and explain the remarkable diversity, complexity and beauty of what we understand and experience every day as fashion and clothing. This second edition contains entirely new sections on fashion and sustainability, fashion and globalisation, fashion and digital/social media and fashion and the body/prosthesis. It also contains updated and revised sections on fashion, identity and difference, and on fashion and consumption and fashion as communication. More specifically, the section on identity and difference has been updated to include contemporary theoretical debates surrounding Islam and fashion, and LGBT+ communities and fashion and the section on consumption now includes theories of 'prosumption'. Each section has a specialist and dedicated Editor's Introduction which provides essential conceptual background, theoretical contextualisation and critical summaries of the readings in each section. Bringing together the most influential and ground breaking writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we all think and say about fashion. This second edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader is a timeless and invaluable resource for both the general reader and undergraduate students across a range of disciplines including sociology, cultural studies and fashion studies.

The Routledge Companion to Fashion StudiesThe Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies

Rebecca Arnold, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety (New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 2001), 16. 9. Suzanne Pagold, De Långas Sammansvärjning (Stockholm: ...

Author: Eugenia Paulicelli

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 9780429559433


Page: 532

View: 426

This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe. Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory, and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact, and consume. For each of the volume’s eight parts, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars, and new voices, including practioner and industry voices. This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and postgraduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, and fashion design and business.

The History of Fashion JournalismThe History of Fashion Journalism

Arnold, Rebecca (2001), Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century, London: I. B. Tauris. Aronson, Amy (2002), Taking Liberties: ...

Author: Kate Nelson Best

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 9781474285179


Page: 304

View: 505

The History of Fashion Journalism is a uniquely comprehensive study of the development of the industry from its origins to the present day, and including professionals' such as Dylan Jones's vision of the future. Covering everything from early tailor's catalogues through to contemporary publications such as LOVE, together with blogs such as StyleBubble, and countries from France through to the United States, The History of Fashion Journalism explores the origins and influence of such well-known magazines as Nova, Vogue and Glamour. Combining an overview of the key moments in fashion journalism history with close textual analysis, Kate Nelson Best brings to life the evolving face of the fashion media and its relationship with the fashion industry, national politics, consumer culture and gender. This accessible and highly engaging book will be an invaluable resource not only for fashion studies students but also for those in media studies and cultural studies.

Fashion RemainsFashion Remains

Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century. New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 2001. Arnold, Rebecca.

Author: Marco Pecorari

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 9781350074781


Page: 256

View: 202

Fashion ephemera-from catalogues and invitations to press releases-have long been overlooked by the fashion industry and fashion academics. Fashion Remains redresses the balance, putting these objects centre stage and focusing on the wider creative practice of contemporary fashion designers, photographers, graphic designers, make-up artists, and many more. Fashion ephemera are considered not as disposable promotional devices, but as windows into hidden networks of collaboration and value creation in the fashion system. Taking an interdisciplinary approach, Fashion Remains explores the unseen and privately circulated fashion ephemera produced by today's most prominent international fashion designers such as Margiela, Yamamoto, and Raf Simons. Showcasing a unique archive of materials, it focuses on Antwerp's avant-garde fashion scene and reveals the potential of these ephemeral objects to evoke and call into question material and immaterial knowledge about the fashion industry's actors, practices and ideologies.

30 Second Fashion30 Second Fashion

... The American Look: Fashion, Sportswear & Images of Women in 1930s & 1940s New York (I.B. Tauris, 2009) and Fashion, Desire & Anxiety: Image & Morality ...

Author: Rebecca Arnold

Publisher: Ivy Press

ISBN: 9781782404392


Page: 160

View: 236

The 50 key modes, garments, and designers, each explained in half a minute! Even if you’re not a regular follower of Suzy Bubble, Le Happy, or The Sartorialist, you probably have some feeling for fashion. Most people have a vague idea of what’s in, what’s out, and what they might consider putting on their own backs. Less familiar to most, however, is the way fashion works as a global business – a multi-billion-pound industry, employing over 27 million people – just who decides what’s cutting edge and what’s long past its sell-by date. 30-Second Fashion offers an engrossing crash course to how the style world works today, alongside an engaging look at the founding fathers (and mothers) of fashion who set it up that way.

Fat FashionFat Fashion

Arnold, Rebecca (2001), Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century, New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press.

Author: Paolo Volonté

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 9781350126916


Page: 240

View: 218

Average body mass in many Western cultures is getting larger and yet the fashion system seems mostly unchanged. Major fashion houses still limit their output to small sizes and the dominant ideal of the female body in fashion imagery is still thin – dangerously thin according to World Health Organization standards. Why is the industry forfeiting a considerable share of the market in the form of plus-size consumers, seemingly against its commercial interests? Why does the thin ideal reign supreme despite damning evidence of its harm to women? And is there a way out of this system of thin ideals and segregated fat bodies? In this original study, Paolo Volonté answers these questions and more, drawing on influential literature on the body, beauty standards and the roles of clothing in society. He reveals some surprising factors behind the perpetuation of the thin ideal such as the precedent of thin models and the introduction of standardised sizing for mass-manufactured clothing. He also revisits less surprising factors such as the attitudes of designers and consumers towards the female body, and notions of 'perfection'. By critically analysing these factors, Volonté reveals why plus-size fashion is often characterised by 'low aesthetic commitment' and low quality marketing. He explores the nature of the segregation of fat bodies in fashion and considers what the future may hold for consumers, designers and marketers alike.


Fashion, Desire, and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century. New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press. Berlant, Lauren. 2006. “Cruel Optimism.

Author: Ilya Parkins

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 9781000043075


Page: 160

View: 796

Inspired by a rapidly changing fashion landscape, Fashion: New Feminist Essays offers historical and contemporary studies that reveal the relationships between fashion with gender, sexuality, race, and age. Fashion is a rich terrain for feminist scholars in the twenty-first century. Explicit engagements with feminist and queer politics, critical interventions by industry outsiders across digital platforms, diversifying images of stylish bodies, and ongoing discussions of the ethics and sustainability of fashion production: all of these point to an urgent need to reappraise the relationship of fashion to feminism and other justice-seeking movements. The essays in this collection take up fashion as a feminist critical tool that uniquely holds together the lived and represented body with larger cultural structures. Contributors unearth surprising new lines of connection between gender, sexuality, race, age, and religion in their relationship to capitalism, both historically and in the present. Bringing together established and emerging scholars, and perspectives from gender studies, history, sociology, philosophy, and literary studies, Fashion: New Feminist Essays traces the far-reaching impact of this most feminized of forms, underscoring the significance of fashion studies for understanding the politics of culture. This book was originally published as a special issue of the Australian Feminist Studies journal.

Fashion CrimesFashion Crimes

Arnold, Rebecca, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety (London: I.B. Tauris, 2001). Barnard, Malcolm, Fashion as Communication (Abingdon: Routledge, 1996).

Author: Joanne Turney

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 9781788315630


Page: 256

View: 567

Fashion is widely recognised as a site for social acceptance and rejection, and as a signifier of personal identity. What happens when people stray from 'appropriate' dress codes or associate garments with 'respectability' or deviance? How does fashion relate to criminality? In this interdisciplinary volume, leading scholars propose new ways of seeing everyday dress and the body in public space. Garments and individual or group wearers are used as case studies to explore the codification of clothing as criminal – hoodies, trench-coats, Norwegian Lustkoffe sweaters, low-slung trousers and Hip Hop styling are all untangled as garments with criminal significance. The book questions the point at which morality as a form of social control meets criminality, and suggests ways to renegotiate established dress codes and terms such as 'suitability' and 'glamour' through the study of what people wear in response to notions of criminality.

The Handbook of Fashion StudiesThe Handbook of Fashion Studies

Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century. New York: I. B. Tauris. Barber, Bernard, and Lyle S. Lobel. [1952] 1993. “Fashion in ...

Author: Sandy Black

Publisher: A&C Black

ISBN: 9781472577443


Page: 656

View: 434

The Handbook of Fashion Studies identifies an innovative spectrum of thematic approaches, key strands and interdisciplinary concepts that continue to push forward the boundaries of fashion studies. The book is divided into seven sections: Fashion, Identity and Difference; Spaces of Fashion; Fashion and Materiality; Fashion, Agency and Policy; Science, Technology and New fashion; Fashion and Time and, Sustainable Fashion in a Globalised world. Each section consists of approximately four essays authored by established researchers in the field from the UK, USA, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada and Australia. The essays are written by international subject specialists who each engage with their section's theme in the light of their own discipline and provide clear case-studies to further knowledge on fashion. This consistency provides clarity and permits comparative analysis. The handbook will be essential reading for students of fashion as well as professionals in the industry.